Chasing the Northern Lights in Norway

The Northern Lights had been on my bucket list for years. A few years ago, for my birthday ending in zero, I traveled to Iceland with two of my closest friends. People told me don’t expect to see the lights; it will be a pleasant surprise if you do. We planned a fun itinerary so it wouldn’t matter if we saw the lights or not. Well, we were lucky and our patience was rewarded.

Fast forward to Norway a few years later. Sigh. Tromso is supposed to be one of the best destinations in the world for the Northern Lights. I hoped I would be lucky enough to see them, but Mother Nature didn’t cooperate. There were no dancing lights, just a glimpse of color. Still, there were a lot of things to do and see in the frozen tundra.

Why Norway in Winter?

My friends thought I was crazy when I opted for a winter trip to Norway in lieu of a sunny respite in Portugal or Cyprus. But the “Land of the Midnight Sun” is magical, even when you only have a few hours of daylight and no Northern Lights. There is a mystical, almost translucent quality to the Norwegian winter light, especially just after dawn when there is a blue glow.

Getting There

There are no direct flights from the US to Tromso, but several cities offer non-stop flights to Oslo. So, fly to Oslo and take time to explore the capital before heading to Tromso, which is about 700 miles away. The flight is just under two hours. 

Despite the cold, Oslo is warm and welcoming. The city is surprisingly interesting. Nights are long and dark, but everything is lit up — brightly.

In Oslo, we stayed at the comfortable Millennium Hotel, which is centrally located for easy exploration of the city. Even in the blackest hours of the night, everything is bathed in bright light making the return trek to the hotel after dinner almost like a walk in daylight. In fact, we had to use the blackout curtains in our hotel room since the lights outside our windows were blindingly bright. I guess it is the Norwegian way of dealing with the polar nights.

Discovering Oslo

There is so much to learn about this Oslo. Amble through the old streets of the city, explore the harbor, and visit the fascinating City Hall. The building, on the harbor facing Oslofjord, was started in 1931. Construction ceased during World War II, but the building finally was finished in 1950. Designed by architects Arnstein Arneberg and Magnus Poulsson, it has an impressive entry door and artwork along the walls toward the entrance. The main hall is decorated with colorful murals. Paintings and Norwegian art throughout the building detail the story of the country’s culture, history and working life.  

An Architectural Gem

After a tour of the city hall, walk down to the Oslo Opera House, home to the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet, and the national opera theatre. This is another must-see. The white marble building glistens in the sun and resembles an iceberg resting in the ocean. We watched as visitors walked up the slanted walkway that allows visitors to trek to the roof for nice views over the harbor. A few hearty souls decided to ramble up the stone walk. A few slid back down, thanks to the slippery ice.

When the Opera House was proposed, it was quite controversial. In fact, when the project was first discussed back in the early 2000s, a survey by Aftenposten, Norway’s largest evening newspaper, showed that 71% of Oslo was against the project. Why? Because the design wasn’t in keeping with the low-rise nature of the city. And the building was not symmetrical.  Citizens wanted a nice, orderly structure that felt as if it was part of Oslo. However, over the years, it has gained acceptance.

Another surprise in Oslo is Grünerløkka, a former working-class neighborhood that is now popular with millennials. It’s a great place to check out bohemian shops, cafes and restaurants! Walk over a bridge from central Oslo, past a local brewery and onto streets lined with colorful stone houses and interesting stores.

Heading North to Tromso

Before we knew it, it was time to leave Oslo and head north to Tromso, a beautiful harbor city surrounded by majestic mountains. In the early 19th century, Tromso was actually called the “Paris of the North.” By the end of the century, the city was a major Arctic trade center and home to a Northern Lights observatory. Today, it’s a popular winter vacation destination. 

Downtown Tromso is especially interesting with its large concentration of wooden homes dating from 1789 to 1904. We walked through town and enjoyed local cuisine at some of the small restaurants lining the street. 

Tromso is also home to a large population of Sámi, the indigenous people living in northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Kola Peninsula. 

Dashing through the Snow

One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to a Sámi village and a visit to a reindeer farm. We started with an early morning bus ride into the wilderness. Our destination: a reindeer farm. We were going on a sled ride! Sámi workers tucked us into wooden sleds with warm blankets and led the reindeer. Lanterns lit the way as we rode in a single file through the snow-covered fields.

After our journey, we hand-fed reindeer in the park! Ah, but the adventure had not yet ended. We shuffled into a tent warmed by an open fire. Hot drinks were waiting for us — and very much appreciated after our trek in the frigid temperatures. We learned about Sámi history and culture from members of the indigenous tribe. And we even got to sample traditional reindeer stew! High in protein, low in calories!

Inspiring Churches

Tromso Cathedral was just steps from our hotel. It’s a rare wooden church designed in 1861 by architect Christian Heinrich Grosch. Did you know this may be the northernmost Protestant church on the planet? The 600-seat Gothic-style church used to seat nearly 1,000 people, but seats and benches were removed over the years to accommodate more room for tables in the rear of the church. It still seems very spacious.

Even more impressive is Tromsdalen Church, also known as Ishavskatedralen, or the Arctic Cathedral. The church towers high over Tromso Sound and Tromso Bridge. We walked from our hotel across the bridge and up the hill to this architectural gem.  The church, which opened in 1965, is very simple with clean lines and a Scandinavian design.

The organ in the Arctic Cathedral has nearly 3,000 pipes! ⓒDeborah M. Bernstein

Two highlights of the Arctic Cathedral are the breathtaking eastern mosaic glass wall and an organ. The mosaic, added in 1972, has been called one of Victor Sparre’s most prominent artistic creations and shows God’s hand with three rays of light. It is probably even more impressive in the summer when light streams through the glass into the church.

The church organ is built in French Romance style. Woodwork is mostly solid pine, and the design is in keeping with the Cathedral’s modern feeling. The organ’s 2,940 pipes range in size from 0.2 inches to 31.5 feet, and its bellows are made from reindeer hide.

More to See and Do

There’s much more to see and do in Tromso, though. We visited the Polar Museum, which is located in a wharf house dating back to 1837. It pays homage to Tromso’s history as a center for Arctic expeditions and hunting. A few of us even went to the Magic Ice Bar for a true Nordic experience. It’s like a visit into an ornately designed refrigerator. Cold, but interesting. There are impressive ice carvings and seating covered in animal pelts to keep us warm. Don heavy, down parkas and sip on cold beverages, served in glasses made of ice! Wow! It was fun — and not that chilly if you’ve spent years living in Minnesota or Siberia.

There were so many memorable moments, like the journey up Tromsdalstinden Mountain by Fjellheisen cable car. Scamper into the car and watch the world go by as you travel to the top of the mountain. The views of the city below and the mountains around you are breathtaking!

The whole point of our trip was to chase the Northern Lights. As I pointed out, the aurora borealis is never guaranteed. You have to have a lot of patience and even more luck. Still, I would recommend a trip to Norway during the winter without a minute of hesitation. Next time, I’ll have to visit in the summer.