It’s almost Easter, the time of year when Belgians go a bit mad — with color, festivity, and, of course, beer. It’s carnival week. People let their hair down and don colorful wigs and crazy costumes for three days of revelry. It’s been a tradition since the Middle Ages! There are parades, music, and merriment.
Two sites are famous for pre-Lenten partying: Binche in Wallonia and Aalst in East Flanders. I’ve been to the festivities in both cities and heartily recommend this folkloric experience, especially for those who like experiencing foreign cultures when they travel.
Folklore Comes to Life
My first experience with the centuries-old tradition was in Binche, one of the oldest surviving city carnivals in Europe. Wanting to immerse myself in Belgian culture during my first years here, I traveled by train from Brussels to the usually quiet city in the Hainault province. We got into party mode immediately and joined the merriment wearing purple, pink, and yellow boas. But our dress was nothing compared to the lavish costumes and make-up we saw at the event. Yes, Belgians know how to party.
Each year (except during COVID lockdown cancellations), a lively parade with street performances winds through the city of Binche. The streets are crowded. From infants to grandparents, every resident seems to be involved in some way, shape, or form. If not a participant, they watch from windows above the parade route.
where everyone is mocked, even King Charles of England. ⓒDeborah M. Bernstein
It’s an “all-in” folkloric event with marching bands, floats, and performers. Costumes are extravagant, music is lively, and beer is free-flowing. The same can be said of the event in Flanders, though here it is called “carnaval.”
Fun in Flanders
This year, I opted for the Flemish version of the three-day carnival with a Sunday trek to see the sometimes controversial parade in Aalst. I’ve been reading about it for years and had to see it with my own eyes. It was wild and wonderful and surpassed my expectations.
Parade Parody
The Aalst Carnaval parade is known for its over-the-top parodies. It is often controversial, and no one is immune from its political incorrectness. Politicians, ethnic groups, and social issues are mocked with floats featuring gigantic, caricature puppet heads.
You have to have a bit of a gallows sense of humor. Themes can be surprising and, in some cases, shocking for foreign visitors. Don’t even think about being thin-skinned. The parade seems to be designed to offend in a cheeky, light-hearted way.
The number of floats winding their way through the city was mind-boggling. This year, there were more than 200, as well as 300 official and unofficial groups walking the route. They seemed to go on forever. Each one was more over-the-top than the last. And there was a ‘take no prisoners approach” with so many floats.
World Events Highlighted
World events were highlighted, like the war in Ukraine. Vladimir Putin loomed ominously over the crowd sitting on gallows with his pants pulled down. The Chinese balloon recently shot down by the US was also parodied with a collection of white helium balloons soaring overhead. And there were marchers promoting climate change, fighting abortion, and polling people on racism.
A Question of Racism
Is blackface racist? That was the question asked by one group of paraders as they walked along the parade route in white coats carrying a mysterious white box. Answer yes, and the box is opened to reveal a large, black rubber snake held below hip level. It was funny but not really politically correct for the 21st century.
As an American, I was surprised by the amount of blackface at the parade, not only on parade participants but observers. But don’t even think about getting into an argument with a Belgian about this. You won’t win. My Belgian friends see nothing wrong with blackface. “Why would you even mention it, they inquire, especially with all the racism in the United States?
Like the Aunt Jemima maple syrup label controversy in the US, the character of Black Pete (Zwarte Piet), who accompanies Sinterklaus (Santa Claus) on his Christmas gift-giving run, is polarizing. Belgians say this is tradition and not racist, but some people are now speaking against the issue, especially in the Netherlands. But there were many white faces painted black on Sunday in Aalst. Ah, the controversy continues.
History of Carnival Controversy
Speaking of controversy, the parade drew international condemnation in 2019 after floats with caricatures of Hassidic Jews amid bags of cash drew international condemnation. That stereotype was the final straw resulting in international condemnation and the loss of UNESCO status. Before that, the three-day “Aalst Carnaval“ event held status as a UNESCO Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. While Aalst was stripped of its status, Binche still has the designation.
The mayor of Aalst unabashedly declared he wouldn’t bow to demands to exclude some controversial floats and promotional material. It’s all in good fun and satire, not racism or anti-semitism. In fact, he voluntarily pulled Aalst’s parade off of UNESCO’s list — before it was booted off, as was expected.
It wasn’t the first time people were offended by the parade in Aalst. In 2005, a hateful depiction of Muslims was criticized. In 2013, one group dressed in Nazi uniforms and carried oversized cans marked Zyklon B, the gas used to murder Jews in concentration camps. That stereotype was the final straw resulting in international condemnation and the loss of UNESCO status. The mayor and organizers stress that this is all just satire and not anti-Semitic. I was happy to see those floats and sentiments eliminated from this year’s march.
Changing the Narrative
With the negative press of a few years ago, Aalst has been working hard to redeem itself. Signs are posted throughout the city that stresses love. “Hate racism, hate antisemitism,” they proclaim. I hope they follow that mantra.
Grab a map or use an app to find your way back to Aalst train station, which is in the heart of the action.
ⓒDeborah M. Bernstein
How to Get There
With more than 100,000 people traveling to the city in just one day, trains were packed. Don’t even think about driving. The train is reasonably priced and drops you off in the center of the action. Weekend fares are cheaper than weekdays. If you are a senior, take advantage of a one-day ticket for about $7.50 round trip anywhere in Belgium!
ⓒDeborah M. Bernstein
Where to Eat
I’ve always said it is almost impossible to get a bad meal in Belgium. Restaurants and cafes were open across Aalst on Sunday. However, the lines were long. I was busy photographing the parade, so I opted for a quick €5 burger from a street vendor. Bad idea! The meat was more like a gooey paste and had no taste. I took a few bites and threw it in the trash. The following day, my stomach punished me for making such a bad choice. Still, the memory of the day and a meaningful immersion into Belgian folklore will stay with me always, unlike the burger.
