I was never much of a history buff, but living in Europe has sparked my interest in learning about the past. After all, this continent is brimming with history and more so than my native land. I live about 40 minutes from the site of the iconic Battle of Waterloo, where Napoleon suffered a crushing defeat on June 18, 1815. Interested? Why not plan a visit to the Waterloo battlefield, museum and Lion’s Mound? If you’re a history aficionado, put it on your Belgium itinerary. Or you can watch the annual battle reenactment, which is what I planned for this week.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
Battle of Waterloo
I had no idea the battle was so short-lived and so deadly until I volunteered at an archaeological dig with Waterloo Uncovered, a charity based in the U.K. Waterloo Uncovered helps veterans who experienced the trauma of war as they uncover archaeological secrets at a battle site with the help of trained professionals, archaeologists and others who have experienced the horrors of war. Since its founding in 2015, the charity has helped more than 350 veterans from the UK, Netherlands, Ukraine, Belgium and beyond.
So, naturally, when I heard about a reenactment of the infamous fight that pitted Napoleon against Wellington, a visit seemed logical. For me, it was like taking a step back in time, especially after an experience of seeing so many intriguing artifacts during the dig.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
The Cast of Characters
Looking at the serene countryside in Wallonia, it’s hard to picture a battle of such magnitude as the one of 1815. Napoleon’s troops were pitted against the Anglo-Allied Army, led by the Duke of Wellington with support from Marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher and the Prussian army. Napoleon’s French army was defeated here, marking the end of the Napoleonic Wars and resulting in Napoleon’s final defeat. Winning the battle cemented Britain as a major world power. Had the Prussians not appeared on the scene when they did, Wellington would have lost the battle, and we all might be speaking French today..
The tented village was set up at Hougoument Farm , which served as one of the advanced defensible positions of the Anglo-allied army under the Duke of Wellington.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
Battle of Waterloo Reenacted
The reenactment really brings the battle to life. This year, hundreds of uniformed participants assembled on the fields where the original battle was fought, readying for the weekend event, held on June 28 and 29.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
History Comes to Life
Volunteers worked hard to make things as authentic as possible. The day before the Battle of Waterloo event, red-coated soldiers and other uniformed fighters joined people in period costumes. They worked and chatted in the tented camp set up adjacent to the battlefield. Units rehearsed, marching in uniform up and down the fields with rifles in hand. There were drummers and buglers and costumed townspeople roaming through the tented camp and socializing.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
Horses were trucked in so visitors could get a sense of the cavalry and their role in the fight.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
We stopped for a cup of tea with the Coldstream Regiment of Foot Guards from the U.K. So civilized! People nearby were cooking food as it would have been done hundreds of years ago! So much to see and learn! Obviously, this wasn’t the era of fast food!
Weathering the Storm
Thursday night thunderstorms gave participants a taste of the weather 210 years ago, but the fields quickly dried out in the heat, unlike in Napoleon’s days when the battle was delayed due to heavy mud! Horses and wagons got stuck in the mucky ground centuries ago, delaying the start of the battle. This was a blessing for the British since it gave Prussian soldiers time to get to the site and provide support.
Had this year’s event been a few days later, Mother Nature would have made it miserable. Temperatures are expected to soar into the 90s in the coming week. Yes, Virginia, global warming is real.
Although Waterloo is in Wallonia, the battle reenactment is featured on “Find it in Flanders.” You can get a sense of the activity and see all the beautiful horses participating in this year’s event.
© Deborah M. Bernstein
Statistics
- Napoleon’s army: 72,000 troops
- Allied army (Wellington): 68,000 troops comprised of British, Dutch, Belgian, and German units
- Prussian army (Blücher): Approximately 45,000 troops
- French losses: 25,000 killed and wounded, and 9,000 captured
- Wellington’s casualties: 15,000
- Blücher’s casualties: Around 8,000
- Horses involved in the battle: approximately 60,000. It’s estimated that between 7,000 and 20,000 of them were killed or wounded.
What to see?
© Deborah M. Bernstein
Immerse Yourself in History
If you missed the Waterloo Reenactment of 2025, there is always 2026! Don’t worry, though. Throughout the year, you can still make a visit to Waterloo’s battle site. Take a walk around the battlefield, visit the Waterloo 1815 War Museum, and climb up the stairs at the Lion’s Mound for dramatic views of the battlefield and countryside. You can also visit Hougoumount Farm, one of the key sites of the battle. I’m on my way there now!
Ready to go? Here is some helpful information about the three museums on site to make your visit easy and educational.
