On June 18, the French put the U.S. on its list of green countries. Hurray! With France opening its doors to Americans again, it’s time to celebrate. And why not do it with a glass of champagne — in the region of its birth?
Champagne: The Universal Beverage of Celebration
The Champagne Region is located in the northeastern section of France. It’s easily reached by car since it’s only about 90 minutes from Paris, or 45 minutes if you opt for a high-speed train. There are also numerous tour companies that will take you there. My personal preference is to go by car, so you can explore at your leisure and visit a few champagne houses, quaint villages and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Your first stop should be Épernay, the world’s champagne capital. Its chalk hills, world-renowned grapes, and good growing conditions provide the ideal foundation for great champagne. And you can go from champagne house to champagne house!
Book a visit to De Castellane, a popular champagne house that sells most of its bubbles to Belgium and France. It’s a good place to get an introduction to champagne production and the history of the cellars., pictured above. Walk through the museum and learn more how champagne is made. There are realistic scenes of wine making methods from the early 1900s, a printing museum and a labels room where you’ll find more than 500 different labels. Then, join a 45-minute tour that brings the champagne-making process to life — from grapes to beverage. A group tour — with a tasting — is €14 or about $16.50. A private tour is €45 ($54).
De Castellane uses three different types of grapes used to produce champagne: Chardonnay (for dry champagne), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Who knew? In the wine cellars, or wine caves, as they are called, discover six miles of dark, chalk tunnels that seem to go on forever. But that’s nothing! Épernay has 120 kilometres of tunnels!
Devil’s Drink
De Castellane produces 13 million bottles of champagne a year. Since it takes two to five years for the wine to mature, you’ll find about eight million bottles of bubbles in the caves on any given day.
Early days of champagne production were challenging because 50% of the bottles exploded due to the pressure. That’s why the monks called it the “devil’s drink.”
Our guide explained that nearly 20 percent of wine bottles were lost due to explosion in the 17th century! What a pity!
Metal tanks, concrete tanks, bottling machine. The mystery of production techniques was revealed. Historic bottles of champagnes and bottling techniques from years past will give you a new appreciation of champagne. Of course, there are other champagne houses, too, and each mansion seems more spectacular and opulent than the one before. Find your favorite and you might be able to book a tour, and buy champagne at a reduced price.
Next Stop: Dom Perignon’s Hometown
After Épernay, travel to the quaint village of Hautvillers, Dom Pérignon’s hometown and the birthplace of champagne. It’s less than four miles to walk there, or you can take a bus and taxi for about $25.
Dom Pérignon, the world’s most famous monk, discovered the champagne making process back in the 1700s in the village’s ancient Benedictine abbey. Tour the monk’s former village, walk through the streets and visit Saint-Sindulphe Church, where his tomb lies in the chancel.
What next? After you explore the historical aspects of the village, do a little shopping and sample champagnes. A few of my personal favorites in Hautvillers are the whimsical, forged iron signposts throughout the village that represented people’s professions; the delicious raisin mustard bought from a local shop; and the chance to try flights of champagne, unless you are the designated driver.
World Heritage Sites
So, you’re in France and ever so close to a spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site, Saint-Remi Basilica. It’s one of two religious sites to see here. The atmosphere of the 11th-century Basilica will draw you in with its beautiful artwork, soaring ceilings and collection of 12th-century stained-glass windows that survived the French Revolution when so much was looted from the church.
And, while you are in the neighborhood, see another UNESCO World Heritage Site: Reims Cathedral or Notre-Dame of Reims. Built between 1211 and 1516, this breathtaking Gothic masterpiece has played a pivotal role in French history for more than 800 years. Thirty-three coronations were held at the Cathedral!
From every angle, Reims Cathedral is hypnotic. Buttresses support the building structure, allowing wide openings that let light pass through the stained-glass windows, including six colorful lancet windows and three rose windows by Marc Chagall. The windows were completed in 1974.
The French tourism office claims that the cathedral holds the title for the most beautiful Gothic cathedral sculptures. Indeed! You’ll see them everywhere you look. There are 2,300 statues in all: arches, decorative figures, indoor and outdoor figures, statue columns, tabernacles, and the famous smiling angel. You’ll be smiling, too, after this inspirational stop.
Let me leave you with one fun fact, especially if you are counting calories: A four-ounce glass of champagne is roughly 90 calories. That’s 10% less than a glass of red wine or sweet wine.
To your health, or santé!
Great article! Makes me want to like the bubbly.