Sip a German beer at a cafe high in the sky, explore a centuries-old town and take a step back into earlier monastic times at an ancient library. Mark these three places on your travel map: Ebenalp, Appenzell and St. Gallen.
What do you think of when you think of Switzerland? Snow-capped mountains, world class skiing, cable cars, breathtaking vistas and army knives? There is so much more to discover here in this country of contrasts. In honor of Swiss National Day (August 1), I’m sharing three of my favorite must-see secret destinations in this tiny, land-locked country.
Where to Start: Zurich as a Base
To discover this travel trifecta of three amazing towns (Appenzell, Ebenalp and St. Gallen), you’ll want to make Zurich your base. Zurich is a collection of narrow, winding cobblestone lanes with pastel-colored buildings along the Limmat River. This northern Switzerland city is probably best known for banking, but it’s a great place to visit if you are in Europe, and it offers a wonderful jumping-off point for day trips in the region.
You’ll find a wide variety of hotels in all price ranges here. Stay near the airport if you are budget conscious. Hotels are cheaper there, and it is cheap and easy to take public transport into the city center.
Peterkirsche, a Romanesque church constructed on the site of a former temple dedicated to Jupiter, is one highlight of the city. The church, built in the 9th century and revised in the 13th, towers over the city. It sits on the banks of the Lindenhof River and played a pivotal role in controlling forest fires during the Middle Ages, thanks to the vantage point provided. A Romanesque-Gothic tower has four giant clocks. They are purported to be the largest in Europe! The minute hand alone measures nearly 13 feet long. It also has a six-ton bell that rings across the city every 15 minutes.
After a sightseeing walk, select a restaurant for dinner. Options capture just about every type of cuisine imaginable. Italian, Greek, Indian, French, Swiss, American and more. Then, take a tram back to your airport area hotel after dinner. It only takes 20 minutes.
First Stop: Ebenalp – The Cafe in the Sky
It’s hard for me to come up with an answer when friends ask, “What is the most amazing thing about Switzerland?’ But if they ask what is the most unique thing, I would probably answer the Gasthaus Aescher-Wildkirchli in Ebenalp.
Forget Starbucks. If you want a cup of coffee, beer or Swiss meal that you’ll never forget, you have to make the trek to this cafe in the sky. It literally looks like it is carved into the side of the craggy, Alpine mountains.
Yes, the Gasthaus Aescher-Wildkirchli is a quirky discovery, high above the clouds. It’s a cafe AND a guesthouse. There are a few ways to get to this unusual venue. If you are feeling robust, you can hike two-and-a-half hours from Wasserauen via Seealpsee or opt for the cable car. We chose the second option, taking the Ebenalpbahn to the mountain station and then walking 15-20 minutes down the stone path to the cafe.
Check out the guesthouse website and you’ll learn that a priest, Ullman, was the first hermit to live in the Wildkirchil hermitage. He lived there in 1658, but the guesthouse has been serving customers since 1860. If the hike was too much for you, or if you just want to indulge in the rustic majesty of the Aescher, book one of their rooms.
An Inspiration
The Aescher has been an inspirational spot for artists and poets for centuries, and it’s easy to understand why. Standing 4,779 feet above sea level, its spectacular, panoramic mountain views will inspire you, too.
We arrived on a particularly busy July afternoon and weren’t able to get a seat on the outdoor terrace, but the indoor cafe had good views from the curtained windows. The interior is rustic, too, but charming. We savoured traditional Swiss soups and food, drank some beer and coffee, and headed back to the cable car. I would have been happier if the walk to the cafe was uphill and the return downhill. But, no, it’s a tougher trek up the hill. But it is so worth it!
Second Stop: Appenzell – A Traditional Alpine Village
| © Deborah M. Bernstein
From Ebenalp, head to Appenzell. It’s less than 5 miles away (about 10 minutes) via Schwendetalstrasse and Umfahrungsstasse. This idyllic village in northeastern Switzerland is special. It’s known for its colorful houses and whimsical designs, like a brightly painted building with elves on the roof. The most artistic-looking buildings can be found on Hauptgasse, the village’s main street. Discover half-timbered homes dating back centuries, quaint gardens and buildings adorned with art. We even saw some of those world-renowned Swiss cows roaming through gardens in town.
In the historic village square (Landsgemeindeplatz), quaint shops feature local crafts and products. Interesting churches with pedigrees dating back centuries can be visited, too. A Catholic church dedicated to St. Maurice sits on a site first mentioned in 1071, and an Evangelical Protestant church sits nearby across from a peaceful, flower-filled cemetery surrounded by hills.
Before heading out of town, don’t miss Brauerei Locker Ag, a family-owned brewery with five generations of experience. Their specialty beers have been earning recognition around the world.
Third Stop: St. Gallen – A UNESCO World Site
St. Gallen is a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for the Convent of St. Gall and a Baroque cathedral. And it’s just over an hour from Zurich via the A1. UNESCO calls the Convent of St. Gall “a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery” that was “from the 8th century to its secularisation in 1805, one of the most important in Europe.” It’s easy to see why.
The Ancient Library
As a lover of books, I was excited about going to the world-famous monastic library, but I had no idea just how impressive it really was. My jaw literally dropped when I walked into the oversized room with opulent ceiling paintings, ancient books towering two stories high, a magnificent globe that predates the knowledge of America’s and Australia’s existence, rococo architectural design features and highly polished wooden surfaces and floors. It was a “WOW” moment!
Walk through and whisper in wonder as you gaze through cases holding rare, ancient manuscripts and admire the ornate woodwork. This place certainly lived up to expectations.
The Abbey Library is positively breathtaking. You can’t take photos inside the library, but there is a painting of the library on an exterior wall where you can take pictures or selfies. Not quite as good as the real thing, but you get the idea.
Staff instructed us to take off our shoes and don gray, soft-fabric slippers so we wouldn’t scratch the old, parquet floors below our feet. The Abbey Library, called the Seelenapotheke (healing place of the soul) dates back to the 8th century, and you’ll feel like you’ve traveled back in time. You can almost picture the ancient monks studying here.
Interesting Exhibits
The Abbey also offers two interesting exhibits. In the Vaulted Cellar, “Gallus and his Abbey” transported visitors through 1,400 years of cultural history with original manuscripts and objects dealing with architecture, art, language, music and writing. There are some fascinating bookbinding techniques featured, including the magnificently bound Evangelium Longum, created around 895 AD by St. Gall monk and artist Tuotilo.
A second exhibition featured a 12-minute movie about a fictional journey of a young boy who is taken from his family home and lives out his life in the monastery. At the conclusion, we were treated to a 20-second view of the original St. Gall Abbey plan on parchment, called “the most important architectural drawing of the Middle Ages.” We only got a quick glimpse of it in the darkened room as it was raised from a covered tray below. Overexposure to light could damage it, so we understood.
Travel Plans for 2022?
So, are you ready to book that trip to Switzerland yet? Make plans for next August and you can even join in the Swiss National Day spirit and festivities.
