I’ve been to all kinds of museums over the years. Some have been fascinating, some quirky and some downright outrageous, like the penis museum in Reykjavík, Iceland. Really! My best friend dragged me along kicking and screaming to pick up a postcard for her daughter.
Yes, I love museums, but when one of my social groups announced we were going to visit the National Museum of the Playing Card in Turnhout, Belgium, I was expecting a big yawn. Boy, was I surprised.
Playing Cards Date Back Centuries
I never really thought about playing cards and their origin. Have you? Playing cards first arrived in China in the 800s, and then they traveled to Europe via Egypt around 1360. The first record of playing cards in the Benelux area dates back to 1379 with an order from the Duke of Brabant. Here in Belgium, production centers for playing cards were developed in Antwerp (16th century), Amsterdam (17th century), Brussels (18th century) and Turnhout (from the 19th century). Turnhout is renowned for the craft.
The Golden Age for playing cards was during the Industrial Revolution, from 1760 to 1840. Printers in Turnhout, the “city of printers,” began to invest in metal printing presses, steam presses and steam engines. Visit the Playing Card Museum and take a step back time.
You’ll find the National Card Playing Museum inside an unassuming red brick building and former factory building. The museum is made up from several buildings located between Druivenstraat and Mermansstraat.
Nearly two centuries ago, a single card maker began the craze. Since 1970, Cartamundi has been the star of the playing card industry and is the world’s largest producer of cards. Their factory in Belgium is world renowned. They’re revered for professionalism, design, innovation and good value for money. View their work and progression of playing card history in the Turnhout museum, from design and lithography to the printing process
There are so many different presses on display here — from a Heidelberg printer to a massive steam printer. Time it right and you can see it in action! The steam press was the workhorse at the factory, providing continuous power at the factory. The model on display at the museum, produced in 1896, is definitely the highlight of any visit. The kids will love it and the printing demonstrations.
The Themes
The permanent exhibition centre houses “Room of the Future” and “Five of Hearts,” with its five themes.
- The Devil’s Picture Book – I gained some insight in the history of card playing, both positive and negative. In addition to playing cards, there were also items to display the themes of quarreling, fraud, blasphemy, manslaughter and murder. You can almost image the dark, back room where shady characters dealt their hands. To remind you, there is artwork on the walls and even a display of knives, guns and brass knuckle! It’s no surprise that the church ruled playing cards demonic.
- Learning and Pleasure – Artists used cards to educate and inspire people and to spread satirical messages. Cards in this category were among my favorites. The political satires are especially interesting. I have some personal ideas on who I’d put on the cards if I was the card design queen.
- Freedom or Death – Travel back in time to the French Revolution. Guess who you won’t find on the cards. The king! During this era, the deck of cards excluded the king, who was sent to the guillotine. Tarot cards rose in popularity during this era, too, as fortune tellers started to use them to predict people’s future.
- 19th Century Games – Cards and art of this era were designed for both romantics and Victorians. Some of them are a bit naughty!
- Achterkant – This display centers on the back side of the playing card and how it was used for advertising.
Take the Kids
The museum is appropriate for children. There are workshops, a memory game, online games, an interactive timeline cloud and options to dress up and take selfies. They can even build a house of cards or participate in handicrafts. Just check the schedule on the website to see what’s available when you are in town.
Harry Potter cards are probably the favorites of young visitors but you’ll find all sorts of themes, including James Bond and tarot cards. Bin 60, pictured below, where you can choose a card to take home, is one of the most popular spots for visitors. And there is a museum shop where you can buy souvenirs.
How to Get There
Turn on your GPS and head to the National Playing Cards Museum, Druivenstraat 18, 2300 Turnhout. Traveling by car is the fastest and most convenient way to access the museum, which is located next to the E34 motorway. It’s easily accessible from Antwerp (26 miles, 42 km), Brussels (59 miles, 95 km), and Ghent and Hasselt (65 miles, 105 km). From the Netherlands, it’s 30 miles (49 km) from Eindhoven, , Tilburg (at 22 mi, 35 km), Breda (24.25 ,39 km), Rotterdam (at 53 miles, 85 km).
Head to exit 24 on the E34 motorway to reach the centre of Turnhout. Parking is free, but limited in the museum car park. You can also park across from the museum in the Muylenberg Car Park, Sint-Jozefstraat, 2300 Turnhout or in the Turnova car park. You must pay for parking in the latter two sites.
The museum is wheelchair accessible and has an elevator.
Tickets
If you love museums, too, consider buying a Belgium Museum Pass, which gives you access to more than 235 museums throughout the country for just 59 euros (about $64)).
Tickets are 5 euros per person (18-65 yrs.); 3 euros for students, teachers and those over 65; and free for children up to the age of 17. If you want to have a “museum day,” buy a combo-ticket for 7.50 euro, which includes the: National Playing Cards Museum, the Taxandria Museum, and the Beguinage Museum.
