I thought I knew the regions of France fairly well, but the Opal Coast was new to me. I had never heard of it. Well, I’d heard of Dunkirk and Calais, but knew little about them and nothing about the two cliffs that make the area famous.
The Opal Coast, or Côte d’Opale, extends over 75 miles from Belgium to the border with Picardy. It faces the cliffs of southeast England, the English Channel and the North Sea. On a clear day, you’ll feel like you could almost reach out and touch the White Cliffs of Dover.
Popular with tourists, the Opal Coast is best known for its two big cliffs: Cap Gris Nez and Cap Blanc Nez. You know, those two places I never heard of. You’ll find beaches, cliffs, dunes, estuaries and swamps there. There are also charming seaside villages and wonderful seafood restaurants in the area.
You may be familiar with some of the bigger cities along the coast like I was, but I also visited Bourgogne-sur-Mer, one of the region’s other big cities. Be sure to put all three on your itinerary, as well as the popular seaside resorts of Wimereux and Wissant. The walled city of Gravelines is also worth a stop.
Dunkirk
Dunkirk is a city steeped in history, growing from a 10th-century fishing village to a prominent city in World War II. The city is France’s third-largest port city, falling behind Le Havre and Marseille. Today, its industries include chemicals, food processing, oil refining, shipbuilding and steel.
Towering over the city is Tour du Leughenaer, or “the liar’s tower.” Erected in 1450 and converted to a lighthouse around 1793, it’s the city’s oldest building. Legend claims false lighthouse signals lured ships into areas where they were grounded and then looted.
Take some time to walk through the maritime city, visiting the active market. Enjoy coffee and fresh croissants or view spectacular churches like the Gothic-style Saint-Éloi Catholic Church, which suffered from some WWII bullet hole damage to its exterior walls. While you are out and about, be sure to see the Tour du Leughenaer, or “the liar’s tower.”
The food here is similar to Flemish cuisine. Forget your diet and try the coq à la bière – chicken in a creamy beer sauce.
Gravelines
Discover the walled city of Gravelines, just a hop, skip and jump from Dunkirk. The town is encircled by moats that flow into the Aa River.. You’ll see vestiges of its heavily fortified past — stone walls and ramparts above the city and river. The best views are from the ramparts above the “Arsenal.” Walk through the old stone gates and you’ll find an impressive art collection, as well as modern bronze statues in the garden below the ramparts.
If you are planning to visit Gravelines toward the end of the week put the Friday market on your calendar, You’ll find it at Place Charles Valentin. There is also an expansive art collection at the “Arsenal” as well as modern bronze statues on the grounds. And don’t miss the belfry, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Calais
From Gravelines, head to Calais where you won’t want to miss the lovely Town Hall. It’s worth a detour. You’ll find an explosion of color, beautiful flowers and a vibrant clock on a 74-meter-tall belfry tower, which has held landmark status since 1995.
Construction on the Neo-Flemish-style building began in 1911 but was halted during WWI. It was finally completed in 1925.
The colorful clock at Calais Town Hall attracts visitors from around the world. ⓒ Deborah M. Bernstein
To Hike or Not To Hike
I traveled to the Opal Coast with a group and we had two choices: a guided tour and lunch, or a hike to the white chalk cliffs of Cape Blanc-Nez. Being an avid hiker, I opted for a hike for the glorious views of the coast, cliffs and churning ocean. Yes, a hike is a great idea — unless you hit gale force winds like I did. Of the 30 people starting on the trek, only seven completed the challenge — the hardiest of the lot! Most of us gave up at the halfway point of Wissant and joined the bus there to meet up with the rest of the group at Cape Gris-Nez.
Wissant
Midway between Cape Blanc Nez and Cape Gris Nez, the seaside town of Wissant is worth a visit. The kids will like the beach carousel.
Stop for a seafood lunch at one of the small cafes. I recommend La Terrasse. And if you need a beer after a long hike, why not try the Blanche de Wissant? This cozy restaurant not only has great food, but the staff is amazing — and helpful. Marienne, one of the restaurant team members, personally helped with transport from the seaside so we could meet up with our group bus on time. Talk about going above and beyond with customer service. Bravo!
Wimereux
From Cape Gris-Nez, take a side trip to Wimereux, just 3 miles north of Bologne-sur-Mar. The city used to be the choice for the wealthy from Paris and Lille when they wanted a second home. Its history as a vacation destination lives on. Today, you’ll find many Brits and Belgians with holiday homes here.
The seaside destination has a remarkable collection of Belle Epoque buildings offering a rainbow of colors. It is a photographer’s dream! I didn’t know what to photograph first. There were colorful doors, windows, shop displays and buildings. Be prepared to go a little photo crazy.
It’s also a good destination to pick up local products, from cookies and crafts to preserves.
Bolougne-sur-Mer
After a refreshing stop in Wimereux, head to Bolougne-sur-Mer, an ancient city with Roman roots and France’s largest fishing port. The walled old town boasts a complete city wall, a medieval castle, the domed Notre-Dame Basilica and a UNESCO belfry that dates back to the 1100s. Explore the city on foot and discover wonderful cafes and restaurants.
The Opal Coast is truly one of France’s lesser-known jewels. Discover it for yourself!
