I’ve always been a William Wordsworth fan. His “I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud” is one of my favorite poems. Maybe because I love daffodils. An image of tens of thousands of daffodils is conjured up in my head whenever I think of the poem.
This week, Wordsworth’s poem came to life with a visit to Caillou-Qui-Bique and Parc Naturel Des Haut-Pays, (the High Country Natural Park), located along the Franco-Belgian border in Hainaut Province.
A Celebration of Yellow
It was truly a celebration of yellow, which was appropriate since Belgium has just moved its COVID status from orange to yellow. Both masks and COVID safe passes are no longer needed, although I am still wearing my mask in shops and on public transport. But I digress!
Let’s talk daffodils! My friend Rory planned a 17km (11 mile) hike starting in Honnelles, not knowing we were about to experience a magical explosion of color.
On Our Way
We drove through the countryside and neared our destination. Heavy fog made visibility nearly impossible, but as we got closer, the fog lifted. Soon, we were at Le Chalet du Garde, which was built in 1892 to cater to the increased number of visitors coming to the area. A café-restaurant, billiard room and guest rooms warmly welcomed tourists then, as it does today.
We parked our cars in an empty lot before heading to the trail. We had no idea how popular this place was or what was waiting on our hike. But it didn’t take long to see what drew people to the area.
Caillou-Qui-Bique and Daffodils
Nine of us — representing nine different countries – walked along quiet streams flanked by daffodils, up hills bursting with the vibrant flowers, and down trails covered with yellow blooms. What a surprise! We had no idea the daffodils would be in bloom this week. They were everywhere we looked.
We also walked past the area’s main attraction: Caillou-Qui-Bique. The giant rock with a menacing face beckons visitors. Legend claims that the devil dropped the 82-foot-tall rock in protest to a church that was to be built in the area. Each March, it towers above an undergrowth of daffodils. The most amazing fun fact: this rock is more than 370,000 years old!
Belgian Blue Stone
And speaking of rocks, you’ll also find an intriguing stone quarry here. The area is revered for its Petit Granit-Pierre Bleue de Belgique, or Belgian bluestone. This limestone has been mined for more than 300 years. It’s known for its durability and can be found in buildings throughout Europe. It’s resistant to rain, wind, sea salts, pollution, and frost, which is why you’ll often find it on cathedrals and old homes.
Heading Home
When we began our return to Le Chalet du Garde, we were surprised by the number of walkers and cars, which were parked along the road for miles. Thousands of others came to the area, specifically to see “la jonquille,” the daffodil.
The outdoor tables at Le Chalet du Garde were filled by walkers enjoying beverages and meals. We sampled some regional beers, cheese, and apple tarts with whipped cream. Around us, we saw large bouquets of daffodils — picked by walkers. Ouch! Yes, I thought picking the daffodils was strictly forbidden. But the botanical bandits may be innocent since we saw a police car next to a couple that was busy picking the flowers. “La cueillette de jonquilles est limitée,” said a pamphlet at the information desk at Le Chalet du Garde. “Ne pas arracher les bulbes.” Translated to English, it means daffodil picking is limited. Do not pull up the bulbs.
And here I thought I’d seen scores of botanical bandits! All those glorious golden blooms on their way to vases in Belgium and France apparently were acquired legally. Who knew? Still, I think the flowers should have been left as they were so others could enjoy the spectacular beauty of this magnificent nature park.
Interested in another spectacular display of nature? Visit Flanders for the bluebells of Hallerbos in May!
