Want to feel like a royal? For three weeks each year, the Royal Greenhouses in Laeken are open to mere mortals, providing a peek at the spectacular parkland, floral and plant displays enjoyed by the royals year-round. This Belgian tradition has carried on for more than a century. Unfortunately, the gardens were closed during 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. But the tradition has returned!
They’re Back
This year, the Royal Greenhouses, known as the Serres Royales de Laeken in French, opened on May 13. The gardens will remain open until June 6, but with limited viewing. No crowded treks through narrow passageways in 2021!
I missed the beautiful Diana garden this year, and the azalea and geranium greenhouses, but floral displays in greenhouse entryways paid homage to them. Most greenhouses remain closed since social distancing cannot be guaranteed. I wasn’t disappointed with the visit, though. New outdoor areas, not previously available for public viewing, were opened to make up for the pandemic regulations.
Entry is restricted to a limited number of people at a time. Visitors line up in front of the palace gate. Everyone must social distance, of course. Tickets must be purchased online in advance, but they are a bargain at just €2.50 (about $3) per person.. And be sure to mask up since masks are required for admission!
A Little Palace History
After you pass through security at the palace gate, you’ll spot the Royal Palace directly in front of you. The neoclassical building, originally called the Castle of Schonenberg, was constructed between 1781 and 1785. In 1890, it was partially destroyed by fire and rebuilt by Alphonse Balat. King Leopold II also selected French architect Charles Girault, who also designed the Arcades du Cinquantenaire in Brussels and the Royal Museum for Central Africa in Tervuren, to work on the project.
On the day of our visit, the Belgian flag proudly flew above the palace, which has been home to the royals since King Leopold I took the throne in 1831. Today, King Philippe and Queen Mathilde live there with their children. No, they don’t live in town, as many people think. The Royal Palace of Brussels in the city centre is used for meetings and official state business while Laeken remains the family residence.
Colors, Colors, Colors
Pinks…purples…reds…greens! The gardens offer an explosion of color, inside and out. Before you get to the castle, you’ll be greeted on the right by breathtaking rhododendrons in a variety of colors. It’s no surprise that it’s a popular spot for photos. On the left, a field of vibrant bluebells lies in front of the Orangery.
Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see the usual array of flowers and plants since the narrow, interior walkways, filled with spectacular floral displays, were closed. To make up for it, outdoor displays were expanded giving visitors a chance to see areas of the parkland not usually open to outsiders. I could picture the royals out for a picnic on the expansive lawns, the palace in the background.
The greenhouses were designed by Alphonse Balat. Victor Horta was his protege! Balat was commissioned by Leopold II to design a complex of greenhouses to house the king’s collection of exotic plants, some of which can still be seen today. The sprawling complex of iron and glass domes encompasses 270,000 square feet and reportedly uses more than 800,000 liters (more than 200,000 US gallons) of fuel oil annually. Those delicate plants need consistent temperatures to thrive!
The Tour
Instead of entering the greenhouses through the Orangery, traffic was diverted this year. We strolled in front of the palace and turned left, traveling to the gardens through a stone entranceway at the end of the palace. From there, we were able to walk down a wide, stone stairway to a private garden. A blooming wisteria provided a frame for a stone gateway. From the hill, there was an imposing view of the city of Brussels .
The tour of the gardens of the Royal Estate winded alongside expansive lawns, through wooded areas and past architectural elements, including statues and temple ruins next to a serene pond. From every vantage point, there was something interesting to see. Behind us, we saw the towering Japanese Pagoda in the distance. The thatched-roof cottage housing Queen Elisabeth’s studio could also be seen from the path. Sadly, we were probably a week too late for the cherry blossoms.
What’s Open?
Only three greenhouses are open this year, the largest in the collection. In the Congo Greenhouse, sub-tropical plants reach to the roof. The nearby Winter Garden, the first domed greenhouse to be built, showcases ferns and palm trees. In the Orangery, a small gift shop is set up where you can buy plants, cards, umbrellas, garden items and postcards. The Orangery is the winter home for the palace orange trees, which are set outside each spring, I only spotted a few oranges on the trees, though.
For a complete map of the Royal Greenhouses, click here.
Fun Facts
- It took three decades to complete the greenhouse project.
- The gardens encompass 470,000 acres, about the size of the country of Monaco!
- The English-style gardens include art sculptures, a golf course, ruins and a lake.
- The garden is home to one of the largest heron colonies in Belgium, as well as cormorants and wild Canadian geese.
- The square footage of the Royal Greenhouses is 270,000 square feet!
- A collection of colorful, Chinese vases is on display.
- You can still see some of the plants belonging to the original collection of King Leopold.
Want to learn about other Belgian floral displays? You can read about Floralia and Hallerbos. In a few months, I’ll share news about the unbelievable floral display in Grand Place, Brussels. It features millions of flowers creating a unique and colorful design! Don’t miss it.
