Lately, I feel as if the world is traveling back in time. Sometimes that can be good, like when your time machine takes you to the Belgian province of Limburg. Turn your clock back and see what rural life looked like in Flanders hundreds of years ago. If you are a history buff or just enjoy the good old days, Bokrijk Open-Air Museum in Genk may be right up your alley.
This fascinating destination is known to almost every Belgian school child and citizen. There is so much to do and see here — for the whole family. The entire park is 1,359 acres. It’s promoted as an open-air museum, but it is more like a small country village with homes and buildings from different centuries. Each one was disassembled at its original destination, carted to Bokrijk, and rebuilt. Add to that an arboretum, the country’s largest playground, and miles and miles of biking and hiking trails, and you have the perfect destination for a day trip. And it’s easily accessible by car or train.
Where to Start
Enter the park and walk past the castle toward the heart of the village, where you’ll find a working windmill and buildings arranged around a large village square. The Open-Air Museum is divided up into four sections representing areas of Belgium and a popular era: Kempen, Haspengouw, East and West Flanders, and The Sixties.
The actual Open-Air Museum is only 2 square miles but packs in more than 120 heritage homes and buildings. There are old barns, half-timbered homes, stone cottages, windmills, farm outbuildings, and, of course, the castle. If you travel in May, you’ll find a spectacular collection of colorful rhododendrons.
The History
Before sharing more about this gem, let’s take a look at the history. If history isn’t your thing, skip to Bokrijk Today.
Back in 1252, Herkenrode Abbey (where they make my favorite Belgian beer) acquired Buscurake, a forest between Genk, Hasselt, and Zonhoven. The Cistercian nuns built an abbey farm, which became a tenant farm in 1447. During the French Revolution, all of the abbey’s properties were seized and sold to a private investor.
Alas, the farm and its buildings fell into disrepair. In 1890, the Maris-Vanhese family demolished the residential part of the farm but left the outbuildings. Six years later, it was sold to Count de Meeus, who completed a neo-classical castle that the Maris-Vanhese family started. The property changed hands again when a Jewish family from Germany purchased it during World War I.
The transfers were not over, though. The Belgium government seized the land in 1919 and sold it to the Central Credit Bank of the Farmer’s Union in hopes of setting up a model farm. It was a bust.
In 1938, the government of Limburg acquired Bokrijk with hopes of creating a public space where culture and nature could co-exist. It took another 15 years for the concept of an open-air museum to come to fruition.
Bokrijk Today
Today, Bokrijk is thriving. You’ll find scores of historic buildings, including one that dates back to 1507. There is a farm with rare breed animals and craftsmen who show how people lived and worked in the past. On our visit, we saw an enthusiast group of school children surrounding a blacksmith, and a baker who demonstrated the centuries-old method of bread baking. We even got a chance to try a “hot-from-the-oven” wheat and spelt bread. Wow! It’s nothing like the Wonder Bread I ate as a child! You’ll also find a coach house, an inn, an old-fashioned candy store, and more. You’ll need a map to navigate through it all.
There are about 30,000 items from rural farm life in Flanders, some originals and some reproductions. And you get a chance to learn about popular professions of the past and see some of them in action: baker, barber, basket weaver, beekeeper, blacksmith, herbalist, herder, leatherworker, miller, potter, and weaver.
Back to the Sixties
Not everything in Bokrijk is centuries old. I could go on for hours about each of the little “hamlets,” but The Sixties area was certainly fun for the grown-ups. We spotted classic cars, motorcycles, a grocery store window, a cafe filled with rebellious slogans from the era, and a gas station. What was really a hoot, though, was the interactive screen where we watched people transform their hairstyles into a ‘do from the past. I channeled my inner hippie and opted for a “beehive” hairdo, something I never wore in my youth. Boy, we had some laughs with that!
An interactive guide showcases the entire era from a Belgian perspective — in English, French, and German.
Want to remember those nights at the cinema? Well, the velvet-seated movie theatre didn’t look much different from those of the ‘70s and ‘80s that I knew, although the hallway was sixties-cool with stylish, retro lighting.. No comfy reclining seats and beverage holders, though. I prefer the comforts of the 21st century.
Turning back the clock, we got a glimpse of home life in the sixties, too. I can describe it in one word: grim. Perhaps we Americans had more modern taste back then. The old living room and kitchen looked more like something you’d find in granny’s house. A pink kitchen? Good grief! Where’s my microwave and power blender?
Shopping for a big TV, transistor radio, reel tape recorder, or 45s? Wow, the appliance store was a blast from the past! Nothing is for sale here, but you can pick up some cool sixties souvenirs in the gift shop upstairs. For a minute, I almost forgot what life was like before satellite radio, streaming video, smartphones, and the Internet.
Family Friendly
Something for everyone? Yep, Bokrijk has it. Not only can the kids see demonstrations like sheep herding, animal feeding, or horses being hitched up to a covered wagon, but they can experience life as a “craftsperson.” Children 12 and younger can turn clay into their own pot, bake bread, make a leather bracelet or coin purse, or print a shopping bag. The workshops are very popular, and there is often a long line. But it is worth the wait. The workshops cost €5 each.
Beer Brewing
Bokrijk didn’t forget about the grown-ups. Belgium is world-famous for its beer and beer culture, and Bokrijk takes you back in time with old recipes and a historic brewing center in Het Paenhuys (the Brewkettle house). The brick and marlstone building, which was constructed in 1700, was moved from its original location in Diepenbeek to the Open-Air Museum in the 1950s. They brew three beers here. We sampled an old Maasland beer brewed with spelt and dark malt. The beer, aged in oak barrels, has a “vinous aroma,” thanks to the addition of a three-year-old 8% Lambiek. Be sure to pick up some of this Wildeman Beer in the gift shop. You can also find it in some local or regional cafes but beware. It’s strong! Don’t drink and drive.
If you plan on traveling to Belgium’s eastern-most province in June, check your schedule. On June 5, beer specialists will bring back the beers of yesteryear. Learn about the history of Belgian beer brewing and see the process in action with authentic, historical brewing equipment. Chuck out your BudLight and check out these old recipes.
If you want to try something in the non-alcoholic department, stop by the coach house before your departure. Try their homemade lemonade with fresh mint. Yum!
Tickets
Save money and book your ticket online. Just make sure Mr. Google Translate is by your side as the site is in Dutch. The regular prices are €14 for adults, €13 for senior citizens, €3 for children from 3-12, and free for children under 3. You can save a euro with your online purchase.
You might want to consider purchasing a museum pass, which gives you free access to Bokrijk and hundreds of other Belgian museums. And, if you decide to travel by train, look into the SNCB Discovery Ticket. It will save you 50% on the cost of the train with your online ticket. Book your museum ticket online, and you’ll find a code on the bottom of the online ticket. Then, go to the SNCB train website, buy your ticket and enter the code. Voila! Your train trip will be half-price. By the way, kids under 12 travel for free.
Makes me want to do some traveling! Very interesting.