Vive La France – Five Castles to Discover

It’s nearly Bastille Day, and now that France has opened its borders to American travellers, it’s time to think about some cool places to go. Nowhere is the sheer opulence of French life in centuries past more apparent than in the chateaux of the Loire Valley. Think of them as luxurious country castles. Plan a trip here, and you’ll have memories to last a lifetime.

Each year, more than 3.3 million travelers visit the 42 chateaux that comprise the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Yet, there are more than 300 chateaux scattered across the Valley. It’s no surprise that the region is the nation’s second-biggest tourist attraction behind Paris.  

Most of the chateaux were constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries. They offered royalty and noblemen a welcome escape from Parisian politics.

What to See

Putting together an itinerary? Why not try Château Royal de Blois, Château d’Amboise, Château de Cheverny, Château de Chenonceau and Château de Chambord? You can read more about them with the links, but here’s a quick introduction.

The rose gardens behind Blois Cathedral offer breathtaking views over the Loire River. Deborah M. Bernstein

Château Royal de Blois

Blois is a beautiful, hillside city lying along the Loire River in central France. Its cobblestone streets are filled with quaint, half-timbered, stone houses and beautiful town houses with little gardens. While many of the buildings date back to the 1500s, some actually date back to the 12th century! Blois works well as a base for travel in the Loire Valley. There’s a good range of three- and four-star hotels, and they aren’t too pricey.

Stroll to the hilltop and wander through the rose gardens below the late-Gothic Blois Cathedral, which stands majestically over the city. Views over the Loire River are impressive! Joan of Arc went there for a blessing by the Archbishop of Reims before she traveled with her army to drive the English out of Orleans. You’ll find a statue of her above the rose gardens.

Château Royal de Blois itself is reached by a long stone staircase from the streets below. Originally a feudal palace, it is steeped in history. The chateau offers a glimpse of what royal life was like centuries ago. 

Ten queens and seven kings lived at the chateau. Architectural design ranges from a 13th century main hall to the mid-15th century Charles d’Orleans Gallery to the Louis XII wing, which marks the transition from Gothic to Renaissance. Most impressive is the external, octagonal stone staircase, which spirals upwards for five stories. 

Inside the chateau, discover ornately furnished rooms with rich furnishings, lush fabrics and exquisite paintings. Wall coverings and flooring are colourful, rich and eye-catching.

Pay homage to the genius of Da Vinci. Discover his art studio, scientific room, gardens and life-size models of some of his inventions. His home is just a short walk down the road from Château d’Amboise. Deborah M. Bernstein

Château d’Amboise

Château d’Amboise is a medieval fortress dating from the dawn of the Renaissance. Kings of France Charles VIII and Francis I reigned here, and many of Europe’s top artists and writers visited the chateau, including Leonardo da Vinci, who lies in the Chapel of Saint Hubert at the Castle. While you are in the neighborhood, be sure to schedule some time to visit Chateau de Clos Luce, Leonardo Da Vinci’s workplace and home. It’s just a short walk down the road from the castle.

Are you a history buff? You might be interested in learning that the château was seized in 1434 by Charles VII of France after its owner Louis d’Amboise, Viscount of Tours was convicted of plotting against Louis XI and condemned to death in 1431. Don’t fret, though. While the king pardoned d’Amboise, he took over his château at Amboise. It became a favorite of French kings — from Louis XI to Francis I. It was rebuilt in 1492 by Charles VIII with help from two Italian mason builders, giving it Renaissance decorative motifs and later turning it into the first Italianate palace in France.  Along with a history lesson, you’ll find an impressive collection of Gothic and Renaissance furniture from the French Renaissance.    

King Francis I grew up at Amboise, which belonged to his mother. Leonardo da Vinci was a frequent visitor and worked in the nearby Los Luce, which was connected to the chateau by an underground passage. 

Who else has ties to this castle? Henry I and Catherine de’ Medici raised their children at the chateau, as did Mary Stuart, the young Queen of Scotland.

Château de Chambord

The double-helix staircase is world renowned. Rumor has it that it was designed by DaVinci! ⓒ, Deborah M. Bernstein

Château de Chambord is another majestic edifice created by King Francois I at the dawn of the French Renaissance. This UNESCO World Heritage site has been called the architectural equivalent of the Mona Lisa and is world renowned for its incredible double-helix spiral staircase. It’s truly an architectural marvel! 

I traveled with friends, and we broke into two groups, each taking a different side of the staircase. We ascended the stone stairs without meeting each other until arriving at the next floor, marvelling at the design. 

We could see each other through openings along the way, but never met on the landings. It’s really an amazing mystery for the average person to figure out! Time to go back to physics class.

On the first floor, visit the royal furnished apartments and the 17th century chamber, 18th century bedchambers and guest bedrooms. And on the second floor, discover the vaulted rooms with barrel-vault ceilings bearing emblems of King Francois I and hundreds of salamanders bearing his initial. 

This castle is kind of quirky. There are 426 rooms, 282 fireplaces and 77 stairways. During its life of more than half a century, nobody actually lived in it. Seriously! It has hosted many guests and dignitaries, though. Today, you can rent out rooms for private functions and visits.

Cheverny’s gardens are exquisite and even include water features and a maze. ⓒ Deborah M. Bernstein

Château de Cheverny

Next on the list is Château de Cheverny, one of the largest chateaus in the Loire Valley. This chateau has stayed in the same family for more than six centuries and is still inhabited by descendants of the Huralt family: Marquis and Marquise de Vibraye. 

Looking for Princess or Prince charming? Some of the young royals are still single!

The chateau was built in the 16th century and given to Diana de Poitiers, King Henry II’s mistress, who later sold it to the son of the previous owner and his wife. It’s all so confusing! Their son, Henri Hurault, and his wife Marguerite Gaillard of La Morinière, constructed the castle between 1624 and 1630 with assistance of an architect who also worked on the Castle de Blois. The interior was completed around 1650 by Élisabeth, Marquise de Montglas. In 1825, Anne-Victor Hurault, Marquis de Vibraye, bought the property of his ancestors.

After you walk through the palatial home meander through the green, tranquil gardens. Watch out, though. You can get caught in the maze!

The castle of Cheverny has been open to the public since 1922 and welcomes nearly 350,000 visitors every year. One of the special attractions of the castle is the daily feeding of the hounds. If you are a dog fancier, it’s amazing to watch. It’s especially popular with the kids. More than 100 hunting dogs charge to the feeding troughs for a late breakfast as hundreds of onlookers watch. You can even make friends with a few of the four-legged ambassadors before their lunch and maybe get a few kisses from the canines, too.

Château de Chenonceau was my favorite castle on our Loire Valley tour. Deborah M. Bernstein

Château de Chenonceau

Château de Chenonceau is my favorite chateau. Exquisite is the word that best describes this amazing residence, a late Gothic and early Renaissance masterpiece. It’s the most visited private chateau in France. This castle was led by an uninterrupted succession of women! They were the ones responsible for building, designing, protecting and restoring it.

The first building was a medieval château dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. The current chateau was built between 1513 and 1517, by Thomas Bohier and his wife, Catherine Briçonnet. Get ready to take a trip back in history.

You might want to book lunch here. We had a tantalizing salad followed by a tender steak and a baked Alaska dessert with ice cream in a meringue shell. Then, tour the chateau and view tapestries, furnishings and paintings by some of the greatest European painters of the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries! 

This is a chateau that celebrates the women of history through its architecture and design. A bright white facade is augmented by lavish, flower-filled interiors. The chateau marked the 500th anniversary of the birth of Queen Catherine de Medici, the builder queen, who is credited with for the chateau’s style and design. In her honor, Gardens were ablaze with black and white flowers.

This chateau also has a remarkable history. It served as a military hospital during wartime and as a refuge for those escaping the Nazi regime.

The chateau served as a hospital during World War II. ⓒ Deborah M. Bernstein

Wherever you choose to travel in the Loire Valley, you can’t go wrong. Enjoy!

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