I’ve been to hundreds of offbeat places, but Baarle may be one of the most unique. Just try to figure out what country you are in at any given time. Color me confused. This tiny village, which straddles the Belgium/Netherlands border, is a crazy collection of Belgian enclaves that lie within Dutch territory. And those enclaves surround seven Dutch areas. Are you in Belgium, or are you in the Netherlands? Who knows? It’s a border crossing puzzle!
Too Many Beers?
Baarle borders look as if a city planner had a few too many Belgian beers. Borders appear to wind through Baarle-Hertog (Belgium) and Baarle-Nassau (Netherlands), chopping off sections without rhyme or reason.
But no! The dizzying borders are the result of treaties and land transactions dating back to the Middle Ages. The Dukes of Brabant and the Lords of Breda diced up the area with land sales and swaps that made the borders so complicated that it’s nearly impossible to figure out which country you are visiting. Belgium, Netherlands, Netherlands, Belgium?
While the original treaties date back to the 12th century, it wasn’t until 1843 that borders were established between Belgium and the Netherlands when the Treaty of Maastricht was signed. The earlier borders were so convoluted that officials just designated areas Belgian or Netherlands one at a time! Today, you’ll find 22 Belgian enclaves (H1-H22) and eight Dutch enclaves (N1-N8), as shown on the map above. The official borders were finally set in 1995.
A Country within a Country
Baarle-Hertog is a popular tourist attraction made up of a series of enclaves completely surrounded by the Netherlands. So, little bits of Belgium are nestled inside the Netherlands. Where am I now, you ask?
Some homes, shops and even the new town hall are partly located in Belgium and partly in the Netherlands. And can you imagine the border crossing nightmare during COVID?
Borders are marked with small crosses and a “B” and “NL.” Stores like Zeeman, which are separated in the middle by the border, take advantage of the location with signs designed for ideal Instagram posts.
Look at me! I am in two countries at once. Yes, you can prove your right foot was in the Netherlands while your left was in Belgium. Or, in my case, take a picture of a friend in Belgium while you are in the Netherlands.
Need another location clue? Check the signs on buildings. Just look for the tiny map to the side of the building number. And there are clues on the roads and sidewalks.
Want to discover more? Follow a mapped enclave walking trail to hop from country to country in minutes. You’ll pass historic buildings, homes, and signs explaining the history of the borders.
COVID challenges
When COVID broke out in early 2020, life in Baarle became a conundrum. I am still baffled by how the residents of Baarle-Hertog in Belgium managed during the height of the pandemic. I would have lost my sense of humor!
The village was partially shuttered. Rules on one side of the street — or even just a few doors down — were different from the other side of the border. And some homes, businesses and even the town hall are located in both countries. Border crossings became impossible. You couldn’t even visit your neighbors.
The Dutch were more lenient with their regulations than the Belgians. Shops on the Belgian side of the border had to close while their Dutch neighbors remained open. Belgium instituted curfews; the Netherlands did not. Bars and restaurants in both countries could only serve on the Dutch side. The front door determines in which country the building is located. Interestingly, some businesses have doors on both sides. Luckily, life is pretty much back to normal now, thank goodness.
crossing borders is easy again
While crossing borders between the two countries is no longer a hassle, there are still some differences between the two countries that may catch your interest. For example, you can drink when you are 16 in the Netherlands, but not in Belgium, where you must be 18. And selling fireworks is illegal in the Netherlands. Yes, you just have to cross the road to Belgium to pick up your sparkles for New Year’s celebrations.
While I didn’t find Baarle-Hertog and Baarle-Nassau a destination for a long stay, it is a fun stop if you are in the area. Don’t forget to take pictures!
Very interesting!
You can have one foot in the US and the other foot in Canada if you visit Derby Line, Vermont. The Haskell Library and Opera House was built in both countries and the border runs through it.
You can walk across the border, which is marked by a very small brass plate on the side of an old building.
This is quirky and fun!